Drop-In: Ideal for applications such as office spaces, lobby areas, restaurants, retail stores, and private residences.

Nail-Up: Ideal for applications such as hotels, bars, restaurants, casinos, office spaces, retail stores, lobby areas, and private residences.

Features & Benefits

  • Material: T1 grade tin-plated steel
  • Size: 24" x 24"
  • Thickness: 0.010"
  • TYP Hole Size: 0.026" (0.66mm)
  • Distance: 0.207" on straight centers
  • NRC: 0.25 tile only, 0.85 tile backed with Acoustical Pad
  • Tolerance: +/- 1/64" on length and width
  • Fire Rating: ASTM E 84-03b
  • Patterns: Over 30 patterns
  • Colors: Over 50 colors
  • Made in USA



  • Sits flush in grid system.
  • Fits standard 15/16" grid system on 24" centers.
  • Panels also available for 9/16" grid system on 24" centers.
  • Cross tees are available to convert 2' x 4' grid systems.
  • Simply paint suspended grid system to match tile color.
  • Our proprietary Drop-In Clips secure your tiles in place.
  • For international orders: also available in metric version. These fit standard 24mm grid system on 600mm centers.


  • Used on wood substrate.
  • Requires wood grid on 24" centers in both directions to provide space for acoustical pads. A 2" x 4" wood stud grid will be sufficient.
  • Requires plywood, furring strips, or joists.
  • Each panel contains a 3/8" nail rail that overlaps tight seams.
  • Install by hand nailing, using Cone Head Nails that we sell.
  • Install by Brad Nailer, using 18-gauge brad nails. (25 PSI)

Acoustical Pads

Acoustical Pads are used in conjunction with Acoustic Drop-In or Acoustic Nail-Up tiles to reduce noise, improve sound quality and reduce echo. These high performance pads have a Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC) of 0.85, meaning 85% of the sound energy that contacts the material is absorbed.

  • Size: 23 3/4" x 23 3/4"
  • Material: Black PVC Film
  • Installation Types: Drop-In or Nail-Up

Cross Section View



Single Panel View (2' x 2')

Multiple Panel View (4' x 4')



Installation General Info

Ceiling Components

A tin ceiling is comprised of two primary components and two optional components. The primary components are the tin ceiling panels and the crown molding. Optional components are flat molding/rope molding and filler. These components are generally used when the design layout requires it.


There are a variety of layout possibilities with tin, including the use of molding, filler panels, and more. You can view all of the different possibilities to create unique and dramatic ceilings on our website at

Tools & Materials

See your project installation instructions for the specific materials list for your project type.

Tin panels: American Tin Ceilings has three types of panels depending upon the type of installation: Nail- Up is used for traditional applications on a wood substrate, and for all backsplash, wall, and wainscoting projects (use adhesive instead of nails for these applications). Snap Lock is used for installation over drywall or popcorn ceilings. Drop-In panels are used with standard 2' x 2' systems that have 15/16" grid widths.

Crown/Flat Molding: Matching tin molding is available from American Tin Ceilings. Wood molding can be purchased at a local hardware store.

Fasteners: Cone head nails and/or brad nails (Nail-Up panels), #6 drywall screws (Snap Lock panels), Loctite® Power Grab® Adhesive (Nail-Up panels for backsplash, wall and project applications)

Construction adhesive: Loctite® Power Grab® (Backplash, Wall and Project applications)

Caulking: DAP silicone latex painter's caulk (for Nail-Up and Snap Lock application types)

Touch-up paint: carries a selection of touch-up paints. If you prefer, your local hardware store or automotive paint supplier may be able to match if provided with a sample.

Tools (Depending upon installation type): Ladders / Scaffolding / Drill / Tin snips / Metal shears Guillotine cutter / Hammers / Nail gun / Chalk line / Tape measure


No water-based products can be used directly on the metal tiles or molding; however, you can use an oil-based primer. Once the tiles have been primed, you are able to use a paint of your choice. Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore also offer DTM (direct-to-metal) paints. The DTM paints can be painted directly on the metal and will eliminate the need to use a primer.

Clear Coat: No water-based paint can be used directly on the metal. The best choices are an oil-based polyurethane or a lacquer.

Cutting Tin

Metal shears / Tin snips: These tools can be purchased at

Guillotine paper cutters: Heavy-duty tabletop paper cutters similar to those used in schools and office environments. Every job requires cutting of varying lengths. We carry the Martin Yale 'Premiere' Cutter at manufacture cost.

RotoZip tool: Great for can lights and applications that require circular cuts.

Fixtures & Vents

Light fixtures, chandeliers, recessed lighting, vents, etc., can easily be accommodated by tin ceiling panels.

  1. Remove the fixture
  2. Trace the fixture perimeter onto the tin panel
  3. Cut out traced area with tin snips
  4. Install cut tin on ceiling
  5. Re-install fixture over installed tin

Nail-Up Ceiling Installation

Tools/Supplies Required

  • Substrate Material: 2" x 4" Wood Boards
  • Tape measure
  • Straight edge (framing square or 4" level)
  • Chalk line
  • Fine point Sharpie
  • Cone head nails or 18 guage brad nail gun with brad nails
  • Tin snips
  • Ladder or scaffolding
  • Hammer
  • 1/2" drill bit
  • Drill

Installation Steps

  1. Build grid with 2” x 4” wood boards on 24” centers. The void spaces within the grid will house the 24” x 24” x 2” acous- tical pads, which will compress into 2” x 4” grid.
  2. Determine the center point of the ceiling by snapping a chalk line diagonally from corner to corner of the ceiling. The “X” where the chalk lines intersect is the center of your ceiling.
  3. Set your first ceiling tile with the edges square to wall in the center of the “X” of your chalk line. Using an 18 gauge brad nail gun or cone head nails, nail your tile to the ceiling. Note: If hand-hammering the nails, you will want to use a small piece of wood with a 1/2” hole. This will prevent you from accidentally hammering your panels, which will dent if hit with your hammer.
  4. Install the remainder of the field tiles by lining up the dimples on the panels. When possible, you want to have your overlapping seams facing away from your main entry point of the room. In most cases when installing a 24” pattern, filler panels will be needed because of the deep profile embossment of the panels. For example, if your room is 11’ x 13’, you would install your field panels in a 10’ x 12’ area in the center of the room and then install 12” of filler panels around the perimeter. This creates a uniform look and allows your molding to sit flush with the ceiling, as it is overlap- ping the filler panels.
  5. In most installations, you will use filler panels and can use flat molding for a smooth transi- tion between the field panels and the filler panels (refer to the flat molding installation guide on page 9).
  6. If you have light fixtures you will need to lay them out on the back of the ceiling panel as you reach them. Measure from the edge of your ceiling tile and mark out your ceiling fixture placement. Drill a hole in the center of the layout, then use tin snips to cut away the material. You can do this by either cutting at 90 degrees to the lay out mark, then cutting the perimeter mark out, or by cutting a spiral to your layout mark (cutting in a circle). You can now install your beauty rings for the lights.
  7. If the field panels go wall to wall then you are ready to install the molding (refer to the Crown Molding and/or Flat Molding instructions).
  8. Finally, caulk the joints in the ceiling tiles and the molding if necessary. You can also touch up any nail heads with touch up paint.

Drop-In Ceiling Installation

Tools/Supplies Required

  • Substrate Material: 2' x 4' or 2' x 2' Ceiling Grid
  • Tape measure
  • Straight edge (framing square or 4" level)
  • Aviation shears
  • Fine point Sharpie
  • Hold down clips
  • Safety glasses
  • Safety gloves
  • 1/2" drill bit
  • Drill
  • Acoustical pads (optional)
  • Drill

Note: If an existing grid has 2' x 4' openings, convert it to a 2' x 2' ceiling grid using our 2' Cross Tee. To install the Cross Tee simply secure in the center of the 2' x 4' opening. American Tin Ceilings' tiles are 23 7/16" sq with a 1/16" step so the ceiling tile will sit flush from side to side.

Installation Steps

  1. Start in one corner of the room at a full 2' x 2' opening. In most situations, there will be openings around the perimeter of the grid that are less than a full 2' x 2'. These smaller spaces will require cut tiles. Leave these spaces around the perimeter for the last step of your install.
  2. Turn the ceiling panel at a slight angle, sliding it through the opening. At this point you can lay the ceiling tile into the grid opening, attaching hold down clips that keep your tile tile tight to the grid so that there's no gapping between the grid and the panel.
  3. Repeat step #2 going to the right or left.
  4. Place two hold down clips on the side where the two ceiling panels are installed on the same t-rail.
  5. Finish installing the rest of the ceiling tiles with the hold down clips as you proceed. If you have opted to use our Acoustical Drop-In tiles, which can reduce noise by up to 85%, install the acoustical pads behind the panels as you progress.
  6. If using a ceiling panel that has a deep embossment, such as Patterns #22 or #23, consider using a filler panel around the perimeter. This will prevent gapping along the edges. If you do not want to use a filler panel, cut the panel just shy of the grid, allowing the panel to completely drop down and not sit on the grid. Then attach crown molding using corner blocking/cribbing. This will hide your cut.

Filler Installation for Ceilings (Optional)

The most common tin ceiling layout uses no filler and merely trims the panel flush wall to wall. However, filler is required for certain applications. Filler is generally used with:

Install field panels first. Cut the filler to fit into the coverage area. When finishing a perimeter, cut the filler panels so that the edges will butt flush against the wall.

Install the filler by coating the backside with Loctite® Power Grab® or a similar adhesive and position it in place.

Once positioned, nail the filler panel into the substrate, placing one nail every 6 inches around the perimeter of the filler panel. Overlap adjacent filler panels by 1/4" utilizing the nail rail.

Flat molding is often used to transition between filler and panels, and will hide any unsightly seams.

Filler for Snap Lock, Nail-Up and Backsplash applications will require the use of the F1-N or F2-N filler panels. These will have a nail rail on the perimeter of the panel. For Drop-In applications, the F1-D and F2-D are required and do not have a nail rail.