Ideal for applications such as bars, open-concept restaurants, and private residences.
Features & Benefits
- Material: T1 grade tin-plated steel
- Size: 24" x 24"
- Thickness: 0.010"
- Fire Rating: ASTM E 84-03b
- Patterns: Over 10 patterns
- Colors: Over 50 colors
- Made in USA
- Original installation method used for 150 years.
- Each panel contains a 3/8" nail rail that overlaps tight seams.
- Apply to wall with a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or Power Grab by Loctite.
- When installing onto drywall, use a combination of nails and construction adhesive. The nails keep panels tight to the wall while the adhesive dries. This combination provides best results.
Single Panel View (2' x 2')
Multiple Panel View (6' x 2')
Installation General Info
Backsplashes and Other Applications
Tin panels can be used for more than just beautifying your ceiling. Our customers have used our tin panels for various applications such as walls, backsplashes, fireplaces, counter tops, cupboards, doors, wainscoting, accent pieces, headboards, art décor, metal sculpture and more. The applications are limited only by your imagination.
There are a variety of layout possibilities with tin, including the use of molding, filler panels, and more. You can view all of the different possibilities to create unique and dramatic ceilings on our website at www.AmericanTinCeilings.com.
Tools & Materials
See your project installation instructions for the specific materials list for your project type.
Tin panels: American Tin Ceilings has three types of panels depending upon the type of installation: Nail- Up is used for traditional applications on a wood substrate, and for all backsplash, wall, and wainscoting projects (use adhesive instead of nails for these applications). Snap LockTM is used for installation over drywall or popcorn ceilings. Drop-In panels are used with standard 2' x 2' systems that have 15/16" grid widths.
Fasteners: Cone head nails and/or brad nails (Nail-Up panels), #6 drywall screws (Snap LockTM panels), Loctite® Power Grab® Adhesive (Nail-Up panels for backsplash, wall and project applications)
Construction adhesive: Loctite® Power Grab® (Backplash, Wall and Project applications)
Touch-up paint: AmericanTinCeilings.com carries a selection of touch-up paints. If you prefer, your local hardware store or automotive paint supplier may be able to match if provided with a sample.
Tools (Depending upon installation type): Ladders / Scaffolding / Drill / Tin snips / Metal shears Guillotine cutter / Hammers / Nail gun / Chalk line / Tape measure
No water-based products can be used directly on the metal tiles or molding; however, you can use an oil-based primer. Once the tiles have been primed, you are able to use a paint of your choice. Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore also offer DTM (direct-to-metal) paints. The DTM paints can be painted directly on the metal and will eliminate the need to use a primer.
Clear Coat: No water-based paint can be used directly on the metal. The best choices are an oil-based polyurethane or a lacquer.
Metal shears / Tin snips: These tools can be purchased at www.AmericanTinCeilings.com.
Guillotine paper cutters: Heavy-duty tabletop paper cutters similar to those used in schools and office environments. Every job requires cutting of varying lengths. We carry the Martin Yale 'Premiere' Cutter at manufacture cost.
RotoZip tool: Great for can lights and applications that require circular cuts.
Fixtures & Vents
Light fixtures, chandeliers, recessed lighting, vents, etc., can easily be accommodated by tin ceiling panels.
- Remove the fixture
- Trace the fixture perimeter onto the tin panel
- Cut out traced area with tin snips
- Install cut tin on ceiling
- Re-install fixture over installed tin
Backsplash, Wall, & Project Installation
- Tape measure
- Straight edge (framing square or 4" level)
- Fine point Sharpie
- Construction adhesive (Loctite® Power Grab®)
- Silicone caulking (color match)
- Caulking gun
- Cone head nails
- Aviation tin snips
- Hacksaw (for J Channel Edge Trim and Inside Corner Trim)
- 1/2" drill bit
Each kitchen has a unique layout and the possible starting point of your project can vary. In the majority of installations, we suggest beginning from the left side and working to the right. We are available to answer any questions on your specific layout.
Note: If your tile overlaps an outlet, you will need to manually cut out the outline of the outlet from your tile. To do this, measure from the nail rail (the row of dimples) of the previously installed tile to the nearest side of the outlet. Using this measurement, make a vertical mark on the tile that will overlap the outlet. Take another measurement from the nail rail of the previously installed tile to the far side of the outlet and a make another vertical mark on the tile to be installed. Finally, measure from the top and bottom of the outlet and make horizontal marks on the tile to be installed. When you have finished, the four sides of the outlet will be marked to be cut out.
Using a drill and a 1/2" drill bit, drill a hole in the center of your marks. Then, using a pair of aviation tin snips, cut out the hole for the outlet. Apply adhesive to the tile and install, making sure that the panels are lined up on the dimples of the nail rail.
Some installations cover multiple walls at right angles. To achieve a finished look on these corners, you will use our Inside Corner Trim. Before applying a panel to a corner, measure the height of the inside corner. Then, cut the Inside Corner Trim in accordance with that measurement and attach it to the panel.
Panel Installation Steps
- Starting from the left side, measure 24 1/2" from the farthest left point of your space. This will mark the location of your first panel.
- From your countertop, take a vertical measurement of the wall you are installing your tile on to. If you reach a cabinet, note the measurement from the countertop to underneath your cabinet and proceed to Step #3.
- Mark your tile according to the measurements in Step #2 and cut accordingly so the tile fits under the cabinet. For vary- ing cabinet heights, repeat Steps #2 and #3 as necessary.
- Measure and cut your J-Channel Edge Trim for the outer left edge of your starting panel. J-Channel Edge Trim gives the exposed edge of the backsplash a finished appearance. Use a hacksaw to cut it to the proper height.
- Apply the J-Channel Edge Trim to the exposed edge of the tile.
- Lay your tile upside down. Apply a construction adhesive (we recommend a quick setting adhesive such as Loctite® Power Grab®) to the back of the panel while keeping the adhesive at least 1/4" to 3/8" away from the edges. This will prevent the adhesive from bleeding past the edge of the panel. With a back and forth motion, apply the adhesive to the rest of the panel 3" apart. Keep a wet rag handy in case any of the adhesive seeps out from the back of the panel. If any adhesive seeps out, wipe this off immediately.
- Place the panel with the attached J-Channel Edge Trim on the wall. Press firmly until the adhesive takes hold – approximately 20-30 seconds.
- Continue measuring and cutting your tiles in accordance with the cabinet heights of your space as in Steps #2 and #3. Proceed with installing the next tile following Step #6.
- After all the panels are set, attach the switch or outlet plates.
- Caulk the bottom seam along the countertop with clear silicone or colored caulk. This will eliminate water from getting behind the panels.
- If the seams need to be tighter, we would recommend that you use cone head nails on the overlapping seams. The nail points would be between the "dimples" of the nail rail.
Edge Molding Installation Steps
- Measure the length you want to cut, by holding the molding along the area where you need it to find the length, then marking it off when a pen/marker.
- Use a hack saw to cut the molding, holding it down firmly.
- After sawing the edge will be rough. Use a metal file or grinding wheel to remove any burrs.
- Lastly, apply the molding to the edge of the exposed tin tile, then use nailhead cones to secure it firmly in place.