Ideal for applications such as hotels, bars, restaurants, retail stores, lobby areas, and private residences.
Features & Benefits
- Material: T1 grade tin-plated steel
- Size: 24" x 24"
- Thickness: 0.010"
- Fire Rating: ASTM E 84-03b
- Patterns: Over 35 patterns
- Colors: Over 50 colors
- Made in USA
- Used on wood substrate.
- Requires plywood, furring strips, or joists.
- Each panel contains a 3/8" nail rail that overlaps tight seams.
- Install by hand nailing, using Cone Head Nails that we sell.
- Install by Brad Nailer, using 18-gauge brad nails. (25 PSI)
Cross Section View
Single Panel View (2' x 2')
Multiple Panel View (4' x 4')
Installation General Info
A tin ceiling is comprised of two primary components and two optional components. The primary components are the tin ceiling panels and the crown molding. Optional components are flat molding/rope molding and filler. These components are generally used when the design layout requires it.
Backsplashes and Other Applications
Tin panels can be used for more than just beautifying your ceiling. Our customers have used our tin panels for various appli- cations such as walls, backsplashes, fireplaces, counter tops, cupboards, doors, wainscoting, accent pieces, headboards, art décor, metal sculpture and more. The applications are limited only by your imagination.
There are a variety of layout possibilities with tin, including the use of molding, filler panels, and more. You can view all of the different possibilities to create unique and dramatic ceilings on our website at www.AmericanTinCeilings.com.
Tools & Materials
See your project installation instructions for the specific materials list for your project type.
Tin panels: American Tin Ceilings has three types of panels depending upon the type of installation: Nail- Up is used for traditional applications on a wood substrate, and for all backsplash, wall, and wainscoting projects (use adhesive instead of nails for these applications). Snap Lock is used for installation over drywall or popcorn ceilings. Drop-In panels are used with standard 2' x 2' systems that have 15/16" grid widths.
Crown/Flat Molding: Matching tin molding is available from American Tin Ceilings. Wood molding can be purchased at a local hardware store.
Fasteners: Cone head nails and/or brad nails (Nail-Up panels), #6 drywall screws (Snap Lock panels), Loctite® Power Grab® Adhesive (Nail-Up panels for backsplash, wall and project applications)
Construction adhesive: Loctite® Power Grab® (Backplash, Wall and Project applications)
Caulking: DAP silicone latex painter's caulk (for Nail-Up and Snap Lock application types)
Touch-up paint: AmericanTinCeilings.com carries a selection of touch-up paints. If you prefer, your local hardware store or automotive paint supplier may be able to match if provided with a sample.
Tools (Depending upon installation type): Ladders / Scaffolding / Drill / Tin snips / Metal shears Guillotine cutter / Hammers / Nail gun / Chalk line / Tape measure
No water-based products can be used directly on the metal tiles or molding; however, you can use an oil-based primer. Once the tiles have been primed, you are able to use a paint of your choice. Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore also offer DTM (direct-to-metal) paints. The DTM paints can be painted directly on the metal and will eliminate the need to use a primer.
Clear Coat: No water-based paint can be used directly on the metal. The best choices are an oil-based polyurethane or a lacquer.
Metal shears / Tin snips: These tools can be purchased at www.AmericanTinCeilings.com.
Guillotine paper cutters: Heavy-duty tabletop paper cutters similar to those used in schools and office environments. Every job requires cutting of varying lengths. We carry the Martin Yale 'Premiere' Cutter at manufacture cost.
RotoZip tool: Great for can lights and applications that require circular cuts.
Fixtures & Vents
Light fixtures, chandeliers, recessed lighting, vents, etc., can easily be accommodated by tin ceiling panels.
- Remove the fixture
- Trace the fixture perimeter onto the tin panel
- Cut out traced area with tin snips
- Install cut tin on ceiling
- Re-install fixture over installed tin
- Substrate Material: 3/8" Plywood • 7/16" OSB Board • Furring strips on 12" centers
- Tape measure
- Straight edge (framing square or 4" level)
- Chalk line
- Fine point Sharpie
- Cone head nails or 18 guage brad nail gun with brad nails
- Tin snips
- Ladder or scaffolding
- 1/2" drill bit
Filler Installation for Ceilings (Optional)
The most common tin ceiling layout uses no filler and merely trims the panel flush wall to wall. However, filler is required for certain applications. Filler is generally used with:
- Patterns with a deep profile depth that do not accomodate cropping
- For design layouts specifying filler
Install field panels first. Cut the filler to fit into the coverage area. When finishing a perimeter, cut the filler panels so that the edges will butt flush against the wall.
Install the filler by coating the backside with Loctite® Power Grab® or a similar adhesive and position it in place.
Once positioned, nail the filler panel into the substrate, placing one nail every 6 inches around the perimeter of the filler panel. Overlap adjacent filler panels by 1/4" utilizing the nail rail.
Flat molding is often used to transition between filler and panels, and will hide any unsightly seams.
Filler for Snap Lock, Nail-Up and Backsplash applications will require the use of the F1-N or F2-N filler panels. These will have a nail rail on the perimeter of the panel. For Drop-In applications, the F1-D and F2-D are required and do not have a nail rail.
- Determine the center point of the ceiling by snapping a chalk line diagonally from corner to corner of the ceiling. The "X" where the chalk lines intersect is the center of your ceiling.
- Set your first ceiling tile with the edges square to wall in the center of the "X" of your chalk line. Using an 18 gauge brad nail gun or cone head nails, nail your tile to the ceiling. Note: If hand-hammering the nails, you will want to use a small piece of wood with a 1/2" hole. This will prevent you from accidentally hammering your panels, which will dent if hit with your hammer.
- Install the remainder of the field tiles by lining up the dimples on the panels. When possible, you want to have your overlapping seams facing away from your main entry point of the room. In most cases when installing a 24" pattern, filler panels will be needed because of the deep profile embossment of the panels. For example, if your room is 11' x 13', you would install your field panels in a 10' x 12' area in the center of the room and then install 12" of filler panels around the perimeter. This creates a uniform look and allows your molding to sit flush with the ceiling, as it is overlapping the filler panels.
- In most installations, you will use filler panels and can use flat molding for a smooth transition between the field panels and the filler panels (refer to the flat molding installation guide on page 9).
- If you have light fixtures you will need to lay them out on the back of the ceiling panel as you reach them. Measure from the edge of your ceiling tile and mark out your ceiling fixture placement. Drill a hole in the center of the layout, then use tin snips to cut away the material. You can do this by either cutting at 90 degrees to the lay out mark, then cutting the perimeter mark out, or by cutting a spiral to your layout mark (cutting in a circle). You can now install your beauty rings for the lights.
- If the field panels go wall to wall then you are ready to install the molding (refer to the Crown Molding and/or Flat Molding instructions).
- Finally, caulk the joints in the ceiling tiles and the molding if necessary. You can also touch up any nail heads with touch up paint.